Alan Morris, Mike Kuhl, Michael Scobie, Rob Benson, Judy Leitch and I plus assorted family and friends flew to Lord Howe from 21st to 26th Match 2015. We chose to stay at Beachcomber because it is reasonably priced (although still ridiculously expensive) and because they have their own boat to enable us to get out to sea to see the pelagic birds. Beachcomber turned out to be a very pleasant accommodation with rooms of excellent standard in a lovely setting with Lord Howe Island Woodhen, Buff Banded Rail, Emerald Dove, Blackbird and Golden Whistler in good numbers in the gardens. Buff Banded Rail and the Woodhen numbers have exploded since I was there in 1995, presumably with the demise of cats on the island. The birds we had come to see were at sea. Lord Howe is notorious for the boats not getting out. However, we had our boatman, Gary Payten on tap and we made it clear that he was willing to go out; we were willing to go with him. Our first trip took us about 5 km north east of the Admiralty Island into about 1000 feet of water. We got lots and lots of birds including fabulous views of our target bird – White-bellied Storm Petrel. They were prolific. In total we saw 30+ with the 9 the most seen around the boat at anyone time. In addition we saw a Single Kermadec but only very poor views, Common Noddy (100’s), Grey Ternlet(20+ at sea), Masked Booby (10+), Providence Petrel (20+), Wedge-tailed Shearwater (20+), Black-winged Petrel (10+), Flesh-footed Shearwater(20+). Despite the sea condition being relatively benign (maybe 1.5 metre swell with 10-15 km wind), the boat was uncomfortable. We got wet and a couple of hard landings left some bumps and bruises. We returned via the Admiralty Island where we saw 100’s of Grey Ternlets a couple of Black Noddy, a Wandering Tattler, some Sooty Terns and lots of Red-tailed Tropicbird. The islands and the Malabar headland are absolutely stunning from the water and worth the price of the trip alone. Two of our numbers were not willing to subject themselves to the trip to Ball’s Pyramid the next day, so it was only 4 brave souls who took the journey. Sea conditions were best described as lumpy with the sea and the wind coming from opposite directions so the trip was somewhat arduous or as Rob pointed out; not for the faint hearted. The common bird on the trip was Providence Petrel and we saw 100’s if not thousands. Mixed in with these were some Wedge-tailed and Flesh-footed Shearwater, Masked Booby and Grey Ternlet. Once at the spectacular Ball’s Pyramid we saw 1000’s of Grey Ternlet and our target bird – Kermadec Petrel. In total we saw 5; 3 light phase and 2 dark phase. 10 White-bellied Storm Petrel were seen in the deep water but we never stopped the boat. Two other events were memorable. Firstly, we went down the south end of the island in the late afternoon with Clive Wilson to see the Providence Petrels returning to the island. We saw 1000’s of Providence Petrels, many at close quarters, providing us with an unforgettable experience. Secondly, we went to the headland above Blinky’s Beach on dusk to look for Little Shearwater. There are two breeding pairs there but there are also 50-60 Black-winged Petrels burrows as well. We failed to see the Little Shearwater but the sight of Black-winged Petrel right above your head and landing at your feet was amazing. In total, 42 species were seen on the trip. The most notable non-seabird was a Black-tailed Godwit which is an unusual bird here. A single Song thrush was seen once by one observer indicating this bird is becoming scarcer.. We found good numbers of waders around the airstrip including Pacific Golden Plovers, Bar-tailed Godwit, Double-banded Plover, Red-necked Stint, Ruddy Turnstone There are proposals to helicopter bait for rats on Lord Howe. While this has been successful on numbers of uninhabited islands, this would be the first time it would be done on an inhabited island. There is considerable controversy about this among the locals. Tips for Lord Howe 1/ Late February -March is the best time to bird there. The summer breeders are still there and the winter breeders-Providence Petrel and Little Shearwaters are coming back 2/ If you want to go to sea allow at least 5 day on the island to allow for reasonable sea conditions. 3/ There are two choices for a boat- Jack Schick or Gary Payten. Gary will take 7 passengers and Jack 8. I would strongly suggest the 5 max for Gary’s boat. This is not an issue as they charge by the person. 4/ The problem with getting to sea are the boats. Gary’s boat is relatively small with 2 x115 horsepower outboards which means it goes really fast. The advantage is you get there quickly; the disadvantage is that is a rough and wet ride. 5/ I would recommend Beachcomber. It is a good standard of accommodation at the lower end of the price range (but still expensive) and by staying there you get first preference for Gary’s boat. There only drawback is it located on the ridge so it’s a bit of a hill from Lagoon Road where most of the shops are located. 6/ It is challenging to get around Lord Howe if you can’t or don’t ride a bike. Bikes are available for hire at a reasonable cost. 7/ Pack anything that is really important in your hand luggage. Our luggage was off loaded and we didn’t get it for 3 days. This is not an usual occurrence. Qantas gave us a toiletry pack and $200 which doesn’t go very far on Lord Howe but It is amazing how little you really need. 8/ If you wan to target Little Shearwater, you will need to engage Ian Hutton. He knows where the burrows are and without an exact location you have no chance. 9/ Everything is expensive- Flights accommodation and food. Allan Benson
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Thanks Allan for your very concise trip report and travel recommendations. I confess that I was NOT one of the four brave souls who ventured out to Ball’s Pyramid on the 2nd pelagic! My photos from Lord Howe Island are on my website – http://galabirding.smugmug.com/Bird-Places/Lord-Howe-Island/ Judy —–Original Message—– Allan Benson Sent: Monday, 30 March 2015 9:50 AM Alan Morris, Mike Kuhl, Michael Scobie, Rob Benson, Judy Leitch and I plus assorted family and friends flew to Lord Howe from 21st to 26th Match 2015. We chose to stay at Beachcomber because it is reasonably priced (although still ridiculously expensive) and because they have their own boat to enable us to get out to sea to see the pelagic birds. Beachcomber turned out to be a very pleasant accommodation with rooms of excellent standard in a lovely setting with Lord Howe Island Woodhen, Buff Banded Rail, Emerald Dove, Blackbird and Golden Whistler in good numbers in the gardens. Buff Banded Rail and the Woodhen numbers have exploded since I was there in 1995, presumably with the demise of cats on the island. The birds we had come to see were at sea. Lord Howe is notorious for the boats not getting out. However, we had our boatman, Gary Payten on tap and we made it clear that he was willing to go out; we were willing to go with him. Our first trip took us about 5 km north east of the Admiralty Island into about 1000 feet of water. We got lots and lots of birds including fabulous views of our target bird – White-bellied Storm Petrel. They were prolific. In total we saw 30+ with the 9 the most seen around the boat at anyone time. In addition we saw a Single Kermadec but only very poor views, Common Noddy (100’s), Grey Ternlet(20+ at sea), Masked Booby (10+), Providence Petrel (20+), Wedge-tailed Shearwater (20+), Black-winged Petrel (10+), Flesh-footed Shearwater(20+). Despite the sea condition being relatively benign (maybe 1.5 metre swell with 10-15 km wind), the boat was uncomfortable. We got wet and a couple of hard landings left some bumps and bruises. We returned via the Admiralty Island where we saw 100’s of Grey Ternlets a couple of Black Noddy, a Wandering Tattler, some Sooty Terns and lots of Red-tailed Tropicbird. The islands and the Malabar headland are absolutely stunning from the water and worth the price of the trip alone. Two of our numbers were not willing to subject themselves to the trip to Ball’s Pyramid the next day, so it was only 4 brave souls who took the journey. Sea conditions were best described as lumpy with the sea and the wind coming from opposite directions so the trip was somewhat arduous or as Rob pointed out; not for the faint hearted. The common bird on the trip was Providence Petrel and we saw 100’s if not thousands. Mixed in with these were some Wedge-tailed and Flesh-footed Shearwater, Masked Booby and Grey Ternlet. Once at the spectacular Ball’s Pyramid we saw 1000’s of Grey Ternlet and our target bird – Kermadec Petrel. In total we saw 5; 3 light phase and 2 dark phase. 10 White-bellied Storm Petrel were seen in the deep water but we never stopped the boat. Two other events were memorable. Firstly, we went down the south end of the island in the late afternoon with Clive Wilson to see the Providence Petrels returning to the island. We saw 1000’s of Providence Petrels, many at close quarters, providing us with an unforgettable experience. Secondly, we went to the headland above Blinky’s Beach on dusk to look for Little Shearwater. There are two breeding pairs there but there are also 50-60 Black-winged Petrels burrows as well. We failed to see the Little Shearwater but the sight of Black-winged Petrel right above your head and landing at your feet was amazing. In total, 42 species were seen on the trip. The most notable non-seabird was a Black-tailed Godwit which is an unusual bird here. A single Song thrush was seen once by one observer indicating this bird is becoming scarcer.. We found good numbers of waders around the airstrip including Pacific Golden Plovers, Bar-tailed Godwit, Double-banded Plover, Red-necked Stint, Ruddy Turnstone There are proposals to helicopter bait for rats on Lord Howe. While this has been successful on numbers of uninhabited islands, this would be the first time it would be done on an inhabited island. There is considerable controversy about this among the locals. Tips for Lord Howe 1/ Late February -March is the best time to bird there. The summer breeders are still there and the winter breeders-Providence Petrel and Little Shearwaters are coming back 2/ If you want to go to sea allow at least 5 day on the island to allow for reasonable sea conditions. 3/ There are two choices for a boat- Jack Schick or Gary Payten. Gary will take 7 passengers and Jack 8. I would strongly suggest the 5 max for Gary’s boat. This is not an issue as they charge by the person. 4/ The problem with getting to sea are the boats. Gary’s boat is relatively small with 2 x115 horsepower outboards which means it goes really fast. The advantage is you get there quickly; the disadvantage is that is a rough and wet ride. 5/ I would recommend Beachcomber. It is a good standard of accommodation at the lower end of the price range (but still expensive) and by staying there you get first preference for Gary’s boat. There only drawback is it located on the ridge so it’s a bit of a hill from Lagoon Road where most of the shops are located. 6/ It is challenging to get around Lord Howe if you can’t or don’t ride a bike. Bikes are available for hire at a reasonable cost. 7/ Pack anything that is really important in your hand luggage. Our luggage was off loaded and we didn’t get it for 3 days. This is not an usual occurrence. Qantas gave us a toiletry pack and $200 which doesn’t go very far on Lord Howe but It is amazing how little you really need. 8/ If you wan to target Little Shearwater, you will need to engage Ian Hutton. He knows where the burrows are and without an exact location you have no chance. 9/ Everything is expensive- Flights accommodation and food. Allan Benson
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