Wonderful Tim….loved going to some of those spots! Thanks Peter —– Original Message —– From: “Timothy Dolby” < dolby.timothy@gmail.com> To: < birding-aus@birding-aus.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:19 PM Subject: [Birding-Aus] Gregory NP & Nitmiluk NP Trip Report > Hi all, > > With all this discussion about missing trip reports, I thought I post my > latest report on to Gregory National Park, the Victoria Hwy and Nitmiluk > National Park on Birding-aus. If you would like to see the full report > with > images, see http://tim-dolby.blogspot.com.au. Always appreciate any > positive feedback or corrections (perhaps with the latter, contact me > personally :-). Hope it brings back some memories or inspires a trip to > Australia’s fantastic Top End. > > Cheers, > > Tim Dolby > > Gregory NP, Victoria Hwy & Nitmiluk NP (Nothern Territory) > > This report covers a recent trip to the southern part of the Top End. A > superb birding area – it’s a Mecca for finches for instance – these are > the > places ~300 to ~500 km south of Darwin. This report covers a trip I did > there in late October (the end of the dry season) in 2015. For ease of > reading, my report’s divided into three parts: 1. Gregory (Judbarra) > National Park, 2. Victoria Hwy and 3. Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National > Park. > > Here’s the scenario. Fly out of Melbourne (Victoria) at 6:00am. Arrive in > Darwin (Northern Territory) at 11:00am. Pick up hire car and supplies. > Drive 600 km to the Victoria River Roadhouse in Gregory National Park near > the Western Australian border. Arrived in time to drink a cold beer under > the shade of a flowering Desert Bloodwood (Corymbia terminalis) that’s > full > of Varied Lorikeet and honeyeaters such as Banded and Double-barred > Honeyeater, all flittering about its blossoms. How good is that! As you > can > imagine, I slept well that night. > > 1. GREGORY (JUDBARRA) NATIONAL PARK > > So, where to begin. I had several aims while visiting Gregory National > Park. My first was to track down some full-breeding plumage Purple-crowned > Fairy-wren. A stunning bird, I’d seen them before, but never in > full-breeding plumage. After that, I wanted to explore the region for a > couple of days, look for the some of the escarpment birds such as > White-quilled Rock-Pigeon, visit a few birding sites a bit further west, > and see some of the regions wonderful finches, such as Gouldian and Star > Finch and Yellow-rumped Manikin.That’s not asking too much. > > Some Background Notes and Where to Stay > > First, a bit of background to Gregory National Park. It’s ~160 km west of > Katherine on the Victoria Hwy and covers 1.3 million ha, which is big. It’s > was described to me by a friend of mine, Tim Bawden, as the most beautiful > place in Australia. This becuase it featuring open woodlands that are > dissected by fantastic rugged escarpments and deep gorges. The magnificent > Victoria River carves and weaves its way through the top end of the park. > To me, it reminds me of the area around the Lawn Hill in north-west > Queensland. Indeed, there are a lot of parallels in terms of plants, > animals, birds and the landscape generally. In my opinion, Tim B was > right, > Gregory National Park is one of the most beautiful places in Australia! > > At Gregory, I camped at the Victoria River Roadhouse. In October, and the > late dry generally, staying at the roadhouse was a good option. They had > some large trees that provided permanent shade, and showers. The average > temperature was around 38 d, so the order of the day was cold showers. > There are also basic cabins here. Note, another option for camping is at > Sullivan Creek, located on the banks of a permanent waterhole, 17 km east > of the Victoria River Roadhouse. It’s small, but not a bad campsite. > Ther’s > also a caravan park at Timber Creek, and a range of campsite in the south > end of the park. > > My hire car for the trip was a 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander, which proved a > perfect car. Being AWD, it can travel all the roads in the places I’ve > mentioned. In addition, the new Outlander is designed so you can sleep > full > length in the back. > > A final thing to note. When packing your bags for the Top End don’t bother > packing warm cloths, such as jumpers, warm long trousers, etc. You’ll > never > wear them. For example, to give you an example of the heat, while > showering, I never used the hot water, the cold water was always warm to > hot. > > Plants of Gregory National Park > > Here’s a quick rundown on the plants at Gregory National Park. It’s an > extremely remote area, and features tropical and semi-arid plant life. > There are a number of iconic trees in the park. > > The Boab (Adansonia gregorii) is widely recognised icon of the Kimberley > and Victoria River Regions. It’s an interesting species in terms of > phytogeography, representing ecological link between Australia, Madagascar > and continental Africa. It was extremely culturally significance to the > local Ngarinyman Aboriginal people. Some trees are sacred sites, while > other have carvings dating to pre-European contact period. European > explorers carved names and dates on Boab trunks, the most famous of these > being the ‘Gregory Tree’, which marks the site of the base camp of the > North Australian Exploration Expedition lead by Augustus Gregory in > 1855-56. Ferninand Von Mueller was a member of this expedition. Von > Mueller > is one of Australia’s greatest botanists. For instance, as the director of > the Melbourne Botanical Gardens, he pioneered an appreciation for the > importance of Australian native plants. Von Mueller named the tree > Adansonia gregorii in honour of the expedition leader. > > Another of the iconic trees of the park if the Victoria River Palm > (Livistona victoriae). It’s confined to sandstone range country where it > grows in escarpment gullies and along streams where there’s permanent > seepage water available for its roots. When you first drive into Gregory > National Park the sheer majesty of these trees is one of the first things > you notice. The height of the trunk up to 18 m high. The fruit was an > important food source for the local Aboriginal people, and the fronds were > useful as place mats and for covering food in bush ovens. > > Aside from those two trees, the two most prominent woodland tree species > were Small-fruited Bloodwood (Corymbia dichromophloia) and Northern White > Gum (Eucalyptus brevifolia). While the plateau side slopes and valley are > dominated by Darwin Box (E. tectifica) and Desert Bloodwood (C. > terminalis) > woodland with a tussock grass and Curly Spinifex (Triodia bitextura) > understorey. In the open-woodlands, you also find Jigal Tree (Lysiphyllum > cunninghamii) and Turpentine (Acacia lysiphloia). > > Along the ephemeral creek line and the banks of the Victoria River, there > were Northern Swamp Box (Lophosyemon grandiflorus), Durin (Terminalia > platyphylla), Ghost Gum (C. papuana), Broad-leaved Paperbark (Melaleuca > leucadendra), Canary Cheesewood (Nauclea orientalis), River Red Gum (E. > camaldulensis) and the iconic Boab (Adansonii gregorii). > > In addition, it’s here that you’ll find River Pandan (Pandanus aquaticus), > Leichhardt Tree (Nauclea orientalis), Freshwater Mangrove (Barringtonia > acutangula), and grasses such as River Grass (Chionachne cyathopoda), > Grass > (Mneisthea rottboellioides), Black Speargrass (Heteropogon contortus) and > Dardy’s Oats (Arundinella nepalensis). The grasses are important, as they > hold the banks together when the river floods and, they are of course the > favoured habitat of spectacular Purple-crowned Fairy-wren. > > One of the most interesting vegetation habitats at Gregory is known as > “karst vegetation”. These plants occur in the caves and under the huge red > sandstone cliff faces that tower over the foothills. These were the areas > used for human shelter and for rock paining. Although the karst surface is > often barren, plants are able to tap the subsurface moisture by sending > roots deep into the ground, or rely on seeping or dripping water. The > vegetation is usually safe from fire and includes species such as Figs > that > normally associated with remnant rainforest or monsoon vine thickets. This > is the habiatat that the Victoria River Palm occurs, as well as plants > such > as Celtis (Celtis australiensis), Xanthostemon (Xanthostemon psidioides), > Swamp Satinash (Syzygium angophoroides), Smooth Chastetree (Vitex > glabrata) > and Cluster Fig (Ficus racemosa). Another intriguing plant found here is a > fern called Dicranopteris linearis. Known locally as Ngabujbu, it occurs > prefers moist shady conditions where there is water seepage. From a > birding > point of view it’s interesting because it one of the favoured roosting > sites for White-quilled Rock Pigeon. The pigeon create a network of > tunnels > throughout the fern thickets, providing ideal shelter from predators. > > If you have time to look, there’s a few rare species limited to the park. > Eucalyptus gregoriensi, first noticed in 1996 and only named in 1998 is a > white stemmed, small tree that’s known from four places on the sandstone > plateau in the west of the Park. Melaleuca triumphalis was also first > discovered in 1996 and is only known from the Victoria River Gorge in the > eastern sector of the Gregory National Park. In the Northern Territory > Grevillea miniata is found exclusively in the Park, while the rare wattle > Acacia stipulosa occurs around the Paperbark Yard camp. There are also > several small woodlands of Lancewood (Acacia shirleyi), the most westerly > recorded for this wattle species. > > The main weed problem in the park is Devil’s Claw (Harpagophytum > procumbens), a native to South Africa. The dried plant are capable of > working their way into the mouths and hooves of the larger mammals, > causing > injury and discomfort. As a result, each year the park hosts the “Devil’s > Claw Festival”, an eradication program run by Park staff and volunteers. > Now that’s a great idea. A public festival to eradicate weeds! Perhaps an > idea for other national parks in Australia to think about. > > Animals of Gregory > > The main macropods I saw while visiting Gregory were Common Wallaroo > (Macropus robustu), Antilopine Wallaroo (Macropus antilopinus) and Agile > Wallaby (Macropus agilis), the latter very common around the Victoria > Roadhouse. Northern Nailtail Wallaby (Onychogalea unguifera) also occur at > Gregory National Park, and amongst the rocks look for Wikins’ (formerly > Short-eared) Rock Wallaby (Petrogale wilkinsi) – a species that’s easy to > see at Nourlangie Rock in Kakadu. The incredibly cute Spectacled > Hare-wallaby (Lagorchestes conspicillatus) is also patchily distributed in > the Gregory. > > Sugar Glider (Petaurus breviceps), like Wikins’ Rock Wallaby, is another > species that may be a new species, known as the Northern Sugar Glider (see > http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-08-10/researchers-may-have-stumbled-on-new-species-of-gliding-possum/6686056), > being spit from the Sugar Glider species found in southern Australia. > > Other native animals include Echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus), Dingo > (Canis > familiaris). While smaller mammals include Common Planigale (Planigale > maculata) Stripe-faced Dunnart (Sminthopsis macroura), Water-rat (Hydromys > chrysogaster), Forrest’s Mouse (Leggadina forresti), Delicate Mouse > (Pseudomys delicatulus), Western Chestnut Mouse (Pseudomys nanus), Common > Rock-rat (Zyzomys argurus) and Long-haired Rat (Rattus villosissimus) – > this being the favoured food source of Letter-winged Kite. The Kimberley > Pebble-mound Mouse (Pseudomys laborifex), once thought to be restricted to > the Kimberley, has recently been recorded at several sites in Gregory > National Park. It occurs mainly on stony and gravelly hill slopes and is > interesting because it builds mounds of stones and pebbles around the > burrows in which it sleeps. While Black Flying Fox and Little Red Fly Fox > are common there too, not to mentioned over a 15 species of bat. > > There’s nine introduced fauna species are recorded for Judbarra including > Donkey, Feral Horse, Feral Cattle, Water Buffalo, Camel, Wild Pig, Rabbit, > Cat, Black Rat and, of course, Domestic Mouse. > > There is a fantastic array of reptiles at Gregory National Park, with 76 > species recorded. The waterways are home to large numbers of both > Estuarine > Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) and Freshwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus > johnstoni). In terms of lizards, there’s 13 Gecko species and approx. 30 > skink species. Monitors to look for Ridge-tailed Monitor (Varanus > acanthurus), Pygmy Mulga Monitor (V. gilleni), Long-Tailed Rock Monitor > (V. > glebopalma), Pygmy Rock Monitor (V. kingorum), Yellow-spotted Monitor (V. > panoptes), Sand Goanna (V. gouldii) and Merten’s Water Monitor (V. > mertensi). Many of the Monitors are considered vulnerable because of their > propensity to eat Cane Toads and die from the ingested toxins. > > Interestingly Thorny Devil (Moloch horridus) has been recorded at > Judbarra, > representing the northern extension of its range. Other lizards to look > for > include Slender Blue-tongued Lizard (Cyclodomorphus melanops), Common > Blue-tongued Lizard (Tiliqua. scincoides) and Centralian Blue-tongued > Lizard (T. multifasciata), as well as Two-Lined Dragon (Diporiphora > bilineata) and Gilberts Dragon (Lophognathus gilberti). > > There’s three species legless lizards including Hooded Scaly Foot (Pygopus > nigriceps), Burtons Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis) and Sharp-snouted > Delma (Delma nasuta). Pig-nosed Turtle (Carettochelys insculpta), the only > living member of the genus Carettochelys, has also been recorded in the > Victoria River. > > In terms of frogs, one of the fauna highlights of Gregory National Park is > the Magnificent Tree Frog (Litoria splendida). First described in 1977, > it’s a large impressive frog, mostly restricted to the Kimberley, but > extending eastwards as far as Timber Creek, Jasper Gorge and Joe Creek. > While the Victoria River contains healthy populations of Barramundi, > Salmon, Black and Silver Bream, which explains why many of the people who > visit this area are fishermen. > > Birds of Gregory > > Gregory has a wide selection of key target species, most notable > Purple-crowned Fairy-wren, White-quilled Rock-Pigeon and Sandstone > Shrike-thrush. While it is also a brilliant place for Australia’s most > spectacular finches such as Gouldian and Star Finch and Yellow-rumped and > Pictorella Mannikin. Other species to think about while birding is > Chestnut-backed Button-quail, Pale-vented Bush-hen and Varied Lorikeet. > Both Victoria River and Gregory National Park also seem to generate more > than their fair share of Grey Falcon sightings. Interestingly Masked Owl > is > also known to occur on the Gregory National Park, but little is known this > population. > > The Roadhouse > > While staying at the Victoria River Roadhouse (as mentioned in the > introduction) there was a flowering Desert Bloodwood in the campground. > When these trees flower, the nectivorous go crazy! Like a tree flowering > along the Victoria Hwy (discussed below), it was full of lorikeets, both > Varied and Red-collared Lorikeet, as well as some honeyeaters such as > Banded Honeyeater and Little Friarbird. Purple-crowned Fairy-wren occurs > around the Victoria River Crossing Bridge next to the roadhouse. I had a > brief look, without any luck. > > Typically, Great Bowerbird was a common campground bird, as were > Red-collared Lorikeet, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Little and Silver-crowned > Friarbird. Aside from that, birds I saw around the campground included > Red-backed Kingfisher, Pheasant Coucal, Red-winged Parrot, White-breasted > Woodswallow, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Spangled Drongo, Paperbark > Flycatcher and Crimson Finch. An unusual sight was seeing Blue-winged > Kookaburra hunting insects at night at the street lamp near the > campground. > At night I heard Large-tailed Nightjar, Australian Owlet-nightjar, Barking > Owl and Southern Boobook. Also In the campground I saw Northern Delta, > while Agile Wallaby were everywhere. > > Victoria River Boat Ramp > > The Victoria River Boat Ramp is probably the most accessible sites for > seeing Purple-crowned Fairy-wren in the Northern Territory. Living in > small > family groups, they display a distinct preference for the narrow band of > Pandanus and cane grass along the riverbanks. As mentioned, one of the > main > reasons I was at Gregory National Park was to see Purple-crowned > Fairy-wren > in full breeding plumage. I’d seen them before, but in eclipse plumage. > They’re an interesting species amongst fairy-wren, and birds generally. > Most species when they go into an eclipse phase during non-breeding > plumage > simply revert to a dull grey form of their original self. Purple-crowned > Fairy-wren, by contrast, completely changes into another bird. Their > plumage is almost as interesting in eclipse as in full breeding plumage. > However in full-breeding plumage they are spectacular! > > As one of the national park signs said, Purple-crowned Fairy-wren has high > tastes for real estate, with a preference for river frontage. This is > certainly true. In fact, if you think about the places they’re found > (Victoria River or Lawn Hill), these are some of the most specular and > sublime places you ever visit. > > I concentrated my search near the Victoria River Boat Ramp, which is > located about 1 km south of the Victoria River Roadhouse. To get there, > turn south down the boat ramp access road (located 500 m west of the > roadhouse). I got there early, and found the best place to look was the > cane grass around the carpark, and the cane grass between the carpark and > the boat ramp. Indeed, I heard them calling almost immediately within in > the first few metres of the walk to the boat ramp (here -15.630781, > 131.133018). > > There was a nice selection honeyeaters in the trees around the boat ramp > including White-gaped, Rufous-throated, White-throated, Brown, Blue-faced > Honeyeater and Little and Silver-crowned Friarbird. In addition, there was > Pheasant Coucal and Dollarbird. Down near the boat ramp itself Azure > Kingfisher huntered for fish, and Crimson Finch were common. It’s worth > noting that a range of uncommon species have been recorded along the river > here, such as Pale-vented Bush-hen (in grassy fringes), Black Bittern, > Star > Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin. > > Escarpment Walk and Around the Carpark > > There are two main things to do when you get to the Escarpment Walk (3 km > return), accessed from the Victoria Hwy 2 km west of Victoria River > Roadhouse. > > Firstly, before heading up the escarpment, stop and bird the grassy areas > around the carpark. I found the best time here was immediately after dawn. > Later in the day (around 10am), it becomes quiet. This carpark is a > surprisingly good spot for birding. In fact, it can be fantastic. I > visited > there a few times, and each time I’ve had several flocks of Yellow-rumped > Mannikin feeding in the grass. In addition, there were Crimson, Masked, > Long-tailed and Double-barred Finch, Golden-headed Cisticola, a few Ground > Cuckoo-shrike, some very friendly Rainbow Bee-eater, and several Pheasant > Coucal who bashed around the bushes lookng for grasshoppers. I got the > impression that it’s the sort of place where anything can turn up. For > instance, previously others have recorded Gouldian and Star Finch and > Purple-crowned Fairy-wren. > > Secondly, head up the escarpment walk, about 3 km return. Again, best in > the morning, so you’ll have to drag yourself away from birding around the > carpark. There are two main escarpment specialties at Gregory National > Park, White-quilled Rock-Pigeon and Sandstone Shrike-thrush, and you may > also see Short-eared Rock-Wallaby. I saw a White-quilled Rock-Pigeon about > three quarters of the way up, with the bird flushing from rocks before me. > This was near an area with a large rocky overhang, pictured in the image > above. I didn’t see Sandstone Shrike-thrush here, but did hear them > calling > in the distance – calling their wonderful melodic call that echoed of > distant rock faces. Other birds I saw here included Grey (Silver-backed) > and Pied Butcherbird, White-throated Gerygone, Silver-crowned Friarbird, > Yellow-tinted, Banded and Blue-faced Honeyeater, and Black-faced and > Little > Woodswallow. > > Nawulbinbin Walk and Joe’s Creek Picnic Area > > It’s worth having lunch beneath the towering foothills and escarpment > along > the Nawulbinbin Walk, a 1.7 km loop. It starts from the Joe’s Creek Picnic > Area located off the Victoria Hwy 10 km west of Victoria River Roadhouse. > The Nawulbinbin Walk leads from the picnic area up a steep rocky slope to > the base of the escarpment where you will see fantastic examples of > Aboriginal rock art, masses of striking Victoria River Palm on the scree > slopes and the intriguing Ngabujbu Fern. As said, it’s a good spot to do > around lunchtime because it isn’t until the afternoon that the sun reaches > the walk due the shade created by the large cliffs. The walk is a good > spot > to look for White-quilled Rock-Pigeon and Sandstone Shrike-thrush, and it’s > a great place to see Northern Fantail. Listening to their call, they > sounds > remarkably like Western Gerygone. On the road into Joe’s Creek there was a > couple of the white-bellied of Spinifex Pigeon, the only place I saw this > species at Gregory. > > Timber Creek and Policeman’s Point > > From the Victoria River Roadhouse, I headed west to the township of Timber > Creek. While stopping for lunch, birding around the grassy area in front > of > the shop was quite good. This spot has become famous because Gouldian > Finch > occasionally feed on the lawn and drink at the sprinklers at Timber Creek. > There weren’t any Gouldian’s when I was there, but it was quite active. > Spotted Bowerbirds were very tame, and harass me for food scrap. Indeed I > lost half a salad roll, snatched from my table when I went to the car to > get my drink bottle! Large numbers of Red-collared Lorikeet called from > the > trees, and several Black-chinned (Golden-backed) Honeyeater called in the > gums on the south side of the hwy. > > West of Timber Creek, I specifically wanted to visit Policeman’s Point > (here -15.630144, 130.476565). It’s a well-known spot for finches, and it > didn’t let me down. The birding here was superb! It’s reach via track that > proceeds north off the Victoria Hwy 4 km west of the township. > > Parking at the end of the track, between the carpark and the river there’s > a small area of scrubs. These shrubs provided the vantage point for > finches > and honeyeater to roost before they’d fly down to the river for a drink. > How’s this for a list of finches congregated in one group. Star, Masked, > Long-tailed, Crimson and Double-barred Finch, Pictorella and > Chestnut-rumped Mannikin! Not bad! No Gouldian Finch or Yellow-rumped > Mannikin unfortunately, but hey, you can’t see everything. There was a > nice > selection of honeyeaters drink with the finch, including Banded, > Yellow-tinted, White-gaped and Rufous-throated Honeyeater. Another > pleasant > surprise was a Caspian Tern hawking up and down the Victoria River. I > always get a bit of a birding shock when I these tern far inland along the > large watercourses. > > The woodland along the track to Policeman’s Point was quite birdy. Here I > saw Australian Bustard, Red-winged Parrot, Black-tailed Treecreeper, > Northern Rosella, Brown Quail, Red-backed Fairy-wren, Masked and > White-browed Woodswallow, Black-chinned (Golden-backed) Honeyeater, > Northern Fantail, and I managed to flush a Spotted Nightjar. > > Stopped briefly at the Timber Creek Airfield, 6 km west of the township. > another known site for Gouldian and Star Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin. > However, it was mid-afternoon, the heat of the day had become oppresive, > and it was very quiet. > > At the start of the Buchanan Hwy (the road down to Jasper Gorge), I > visited > several sites for finches. The waterholes along a small, unnamed creek 4.5 > km from the Victoria Hwy is known to attract Pictorella Mannikin and > Gouldian Finch. All I saw, however, was Masked, Long-tailed and > Double-barred Finch. Skull Creek, a further 9 km south, attracted similar > species. Although I didn’t see one, the Buchanan Hwy is also a reliable – > if that’s the right word – place to see Grey Falcon. > > Jasper Gorge > > Note if you have time, head down to Jasper Gorge. Here there’s a a > permanent waterhole at the gorge. The creek lines here hold a good number > of finch, with a remarkable 10 species on Jasper Gorges list including > Painted, Gouldian and Star Finch, Yellow-rumped and Pictorella Mannikin. > Sandstone Shrike-thrush, Spinifex Pigeon, and White-quilled Rock-Pigeon > (its southernmost limit) also occur. Also keep an eye open in the grassy > woodlands around the gorge for Northern Nailtail Wallaby. > > 2. VICTORIA HWY > > After visiting Gregory National Park, I travelled back east along the > Victoria Hwy, stopping at a few spots on route to Nitmiluk National Park. > It’s a fascinating drive, typical outback, with a pleasant range of > features and habitats along the way. It reminded me of the section of the > Savanah Way between Normanton and Atherton in Queensland. > > While driving the Victoria Hwy, I tended to stopped and look in any > flowering tree. At one spot there was Desert Bloodwood (Corymbia > terminalis) that was flowering prolifically. Like the tree at the > Victorian > Roadhouse, it proved a magnet for nectar feeding honeyeaters and > lorikeets. > The list of species in this one tree was outstanding. How this for a list! > Varied and Red-collared Lorikeet, Little Friarbird, Banded, Bar-breasted, > Yellow-tinted, Rufous-throated, White-throated, White-gaped and Brown > Honeyeater, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Varied Sittella (race leucoptera, > the ‘White-winged Sittella’) and Rufous Whistler. That’s basically the > fool > gambit of northern woodland honeyeaters all in one tree! Beautiful. > > About half way along the Victoria Hwy, (I didn’t take note of the > location) > there’s a large farm dam. This was a drinking site for the largest flock > of > Red-tailed Black Cockatoo I’ve ever seen. There must’ve been at least 1000 > birds in one spot! > > 173 km from the Victoria River Roadhouse (21 km west of Katherine) I > stopped at Chinaman Creek. I looked for the rare Chestnut-backed > Button-quail in the grassy savannah woodland on the northern side of the > highway about 500 m west of Chinaman Creek (here -14.606594, 132.143024). > I > specifically searched in the taller spear grass, ~ 1 m high. I reckon this > time of year (mid-Oct) is the perfect time to look. The grass is tinder > dry > and was consequently very easy to walk through. My basic technique for > searching was to walk quickly and directly through any tall grass trying > to > flush a bird. After about 30 minutes I luckily flushed an attractive > female > Chestnut-backed Button-quail. > > Button-quail are bit like Ground Parrot, flushing the bird is only half > your luck. The other half is hoping that it lands somewhere nearby so you > can have a decent look! Then, perhaps, just perhaps, you might get a > decent > photo. Fortunately for me, my bird landed about 10 m away and I was able > to > walk with the bird for for about 5 min. In birding terms, it doesn’t get > any better than that! > > From Chinaman Creek, I travelled a further 4 km east to visit a series of > pools known as Horse Hole. This is another highway crossing of the > Chinaman > Creek (here -14.571294, 132.178172). (If you’re coming from Katherine, it > is 16.3 km west of Katherine.) The water holes are reached via a small > track that leads north of the Hwy for ~100 m. I parked near the old > Victoria Hwy. Horse Hole is a well-known site for Gouldian Finch, Hooded > Parrot and Chestnut-backed Button-quail. By the time I reached there, > again > the heat was oppressive, around 40 degrees, and bird life was very low. I > did manage to see a several Crested Shrike-tit. This is the northern race > whitei, known as the ‘Northern Shrike-tit’, a bird that’s considered a > possible separate species. It’s worth noting that Black Bittern have also > been recorded here, a bird that tends to move to the waterholes along > inland creek lines during the dry. > > Out of interest, it 18 km west of Katherine there’s a large truck stop > (here -14.587850, 132.159911). This is also a known as a spot to look for > Gouldian Finch and Hooded Parrot particularly mid-morning. I stopped for a > bit of a look, but, to be quite honest, as truck stops often are, it’s a > bit of rubbish dump. > > Finally, the Victoria Hwy is good for raptors so, while driving, keep your > eyes peeled. Along the way I saw a couple of Black-breasted Buzzard, > Spotted Harrier, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Australian Hobby and Brown Falcon. > Interestingly Brown Falcon were surprisingly uncommon in this part of the > Top End. > > 3. NITMILUK NATIONAL PARK > > Nitmiluk National Park has some spectacular sandstone valleys. It’s also > one of the best places in Australia to see Gouldian Finch and Hooded > Parrot! There are two main sections of the park: Edith Falls (Leliyn) in > the north, and Katherine Gorge in the south. Access Leliyn is by turning > off the Stuart Hwy 42 km north of Katherine (48 km south of Pine Creek), > with the falls a further 19 km down Jatbula Rd. The park has really good > camping facilities, so I camped for a couple of days at Edith Falls. > > Plants at Nitmiluk > > Basically Nitmiluk consists of the following habitat types: sandstone > plateau heath, open woodlands, open forest, sandstone monsoon forest and > riverine. Each of these have there own collection of plants. > > On the sandstone plateau Scarlet Gum (Eucalyptus phoenicea), with bright > red flowers, and Variable-barked Bloodwood (Corymbia dichromophloia) grow > in areas where the soil is deep enough, and there is a range of Grevillea > such as Fern-leafed Grevillea (Grevillea pteridifolia) and Dryander’s > Grevillea (Grevillea dryandri) and Turkey Bush (Calytrix exstipulata) > scattered across the higher areas. The sandstone landscapes offer > protection from fire and therefore for fire-sensitive species such old > growth Curly Spinifex (Triodia bitextura) and Pityrodia pungens, the local > food sources for the spectacular Leichhardt’s Grasshopper. > > Interestingly Leichhardt’s grasshopper likes to stick to the same kind of > food. At Keep River it eats Pityrodia ternfolia, at Nitmiluk it eats > Pityrodia pungens while at Kakadu National Park it eats Pityrodia > jamessii. > > The open woodlands in Nitmiluk are dominated by the Bloodwoods (Corymbia > foelscheana, C. porrecta, and C. bleeseri) and Salmon Gum (Eucalyptus > tintinnans), Ironwood (Erythrophleum chlorostachys), Billygoat Plum > (Terminalia ferdinandiana) and Green Plum (Buchanania obovata). The Salmon > Gum is an important habitat tree, especially for the Gouldian Finch, which > nests in them. Annual Spear Grass (Sorghum spp.) are found in these area, > serving as food for the Gouldians. > > The open forests are dominated by Darwin Stringybark (Eucalyptus > tetrodonta) and Woollybutt (E. miniata), and I noticed occasional patches > of Arhnem Cypress Pine (Callitris intratropica). There was also > Fern-leafed > Grevillea (Grevillea pteridifolia) and Broad-leaved Paperbark (Melaleuca > viridiflora) with occasional patches of Swamp Banksia (Banksia dentata). > > There are occassional small patches of monsoon rainforest, particularly in > sandstone gorges where they are protected from fire and have access to > permanent water seeping through the sandstone. Rainforest trees tend to be > tall and provide almost complete shade for ferns and flowering shrubs like > the beautiful Native Lassiandra or Blue Tongue (Melastoma malabathricum). > The rainforest canopy includes Native Apples (Syzygium Gaertn) and > Milkwood > (Alstonia actinophylla). > > The sandstone plateau drains into the lowlands through watercourses such > as > Seventeen Mile Creek and the Katherine River. Along the creeks and rivers > there’s lush bands of riparian vegetation growing alongside them. There’s > a > nice example of this habitat type at Edith Falls. The species I noticed > growing here include native apple trees including Chalky Apple (Syzygium > forte), Leichhardt Tree (Nauclea orientalis), River Pandanus (Pandanus > aquaticus), Northern Swamp Box (Lophostemon grandiflorus), Freshwater > Mangrove (Barringtonia acutangula), Fishnet Vine (Flagellaria indica), > native figs (Ficus spp) and paperbarks (Melaleuca spp) and some introduced > Passionfruit (Passiflora foetida). > > Animals of Nitmiluk > > Just briefly, here’s a bit of a rundown of the animals that you need to > look out for at Nitmiluk. The main macropods you’ll see are Agile Wallaby > (Macropus agilis), Euro (Macropus robustus), Antilopine Wallaroo (Macropus > antilopinus), which were all fairly easy to see in the park. In the rocky > escarpments you might find Black Wallaroo (Macropus bernardus), Spectacled > Hare-wallaby (Lagorchestes conspicillatus), Northern Nailtail Wallaby > (Onychogalea unguifera) and Short-eared Rock-wallaby (Petrogale > brachyotis). > > The Northern Quoll (Dasyurus hallucatus) has apparently disappeared from > most of its former range in the Northern Territory and south-east and > south-west Kimberley. They do occur in very low numbers at Nitmiluk. > Considered Endangered because of a serious population decline (at least > 50% > over the last 10 years) probably due to the effects of habitat > degradation, > Cane Toad and introduced predators. > > While also look for Sandstone Antechinus (Parantechinus bilarni), Common > Planigale (Plangale maculata), Kakadu Dunnart (Sminthopsis bindi), > Red-cheeked Dunnart (Sminthopsis virginiae), Common Brushtail Possum > (Trichosurus vulpecula), Rock Ringtail Possum (Pseudocheirus dahli) and > Sugar Glider (Petaurus brevicep), Short-beaked Echidna (Tachyglossus > aculeatus) and Northern Brown Bandicoot (Isoodon macrourus), Water Rat > (Hydromys chrysogaster), Forrest’s Mouse (Leggadina forresti), Common Rock > Rat (Zyzomys argurus), Grassland Melomys (Melomys burtoni), House Mouse > (Mus musculus), Delicate Mouse (Pseudomys delicatulus) and Western > Chestnut > Mouse (Pseudomys nanus). I won’t list them here, but there’s 78 species of > reptiles, including 53 lizard, 22 snake and 3 turtle species. A full list > can be found here – > http://www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/10169/nnps4_values.pdf. > > > Birds of Nitmiluk > > I was really looking forward to birding around Nitmiluk for a couple of > reasons. Firstly, its probably the best place in the world to see Gouldian > Finch and Hoodded Parrot! Secondly, given the heat of the day, reaching > the > high 30’s around 10am, I could go for a swim in the large natural pool at > Edith Falls any time I wanted. Indeed, while there, the order of the day > was as follows: get up and go for a swim. Go birdwatching. Go for another > swim. Go birdwatching. To cool down for the evening, go for another swim. > You get the picture. What a wonderful way to spend the day! I highly > recommend it. Especially when the birds you are birdwatching is Gouldian > Finch. So, where the best place to go birdwatching. > > A creek line 5.6 km from the Stuart Hwy (here -14.186700, 132.082345) is > definitely the first place to go after you’ve had your pre-dawn swim 
> Here’s there’s a small creek line 5.6 km from the Stuart Hwy. Birdwise, > the > late dry is the perfect time of year to visit Nitmiluk. Late in the dry > season several small isolated waterholes form along the creek just north > of > the road. As a result, early in the morning, a mass of birds come into > drink and wash at the waterholes. Making sure I was there at dawn each > day, > I parked in the circular turn-in that travels north for ~100 m. > > The first birds to come in was several Northern Rosella along with a nice > selection of honeyeaters – Bar-breasted Honeyeater, Banded, > Rufous-throated > and Rufous-banded Honeyeater. Then a couple of Hooded Parrot arrived. Very > nice! A small bevy of Brown Quail walked down a small track to the pool. > Next to come in was the finches! The first to arrive was several Crimson > Finch – they inhabited the Pandanas just up the creek. Then mixed flocks > of > Masked and Long-tailed Finch. Then I noticed a large flock of birds > swirling in the air about 100 feet above me. For a fraction of moment I > thought they were European Stirling, as the birds were flying around in a > acrobatic mass, Starling-like. Hang on. There aren’t any Starling in this > part of the Northern Territory. That murmuration of birds above me was an > enormous flock of Gouldian Finch! Whow! Wow! Put simply, this was one of > my > most memorable birding moments ever! Over the next hour or so, the birds > came in to drink, darting back and forward from a bush located next to one > of the pool. Once they’d finished drinking, they headed south into the > surrounding hills to feed (here -14.189787, 132.081487). I followed, and > birdwatched around the hills, I’d occasionally find myself surround by > Gouldian Finch, often perched in small chattering flocks in Salmon Gum. > > Another spot I saw Gouldian Finch and Hooded Parrot was at the Edith River > crossing. It’s located on the Stuart Hwy immediately north of the turn-off > to Edith Falls (here -14.183807, 132.032805). I scramble down the ridge to > where there was a large pool. Over the course of an hour mixed flocks of > finch, mostly Long-tailed and Masked Finch, but several individual > Gouldian > Finch, plus Hooded Parrot, drank at the waterhole > > Birding around the Edith Falls campground was also very pleasant. The > common birds were Northern Rosella, Silver-crowned Friarbird, > Lemon-bellied > Flyrobin (formally called Lemon-bellied Flycatcher), Little Shrike-thrush, > Yellow Oriole, Australian Figbird, Pied Butcherbird and Great Bowerbird, > plus a range of the more common honeyeater. While along the Leliyn Trail, > a > 2.6 km circuit that leads up the Middle and Upper Pools, I saw Crested > Shrike-tit (northern race whitei), as well as Little Woodswallow, Little > Shrike-thrush, Banded and Bar-breasted Honeyeater. > > I also travelled down to the road to Katherine Gorge to check out Donkey > Camp Weir. A reliable place to see Great-billed Heron, Tthe entrance to > the > weir is 10 km from Katherine (500 m past the Kumbidgee Tea Rooms). I > parked > at the pumping station and walked down to stream to the weir. No > Great-billed Heron, but did flush a Black Bittern from some clumps of > River > Pandan, the second time I saw this species on this trip. Seeing itmade me > think of the first Black Bittern. When I was 17, Dad and I saw a bird > along > Carnavon Gorge in central Queensland. Some of the other birds seen near > the > weir included Nankeen Night-Heron, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Northern > Rosella, Red-winged Parrot, Black-tailed Treecreeper, Striated Pardalote, > Northern Fantail, Little Woodswallow, Crimson Long-tailed and Masked > Finch. > > From Nitmiluk I headed up to Jabiru in Kakadu for a couple of weeks. I to > running some guided bird tours as part of Kakada Bird Week. But that’s > another story! > > Cheers, > > Tim Dolby >
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